Towards ancient Mongnai city

Maung Tha (Archaeology)

MONGNAI Township, included in the area of Langkhio District, is 100 miles from Taunggyi. Oral histories stated an ogress ruled the region. The title of town Mongnai derived from Mongphai called ogre town in Shan language. Some people said Mongnai means grandma or snow town.

Mongnai filled with beautiful scenes of Shan State possesses various kinds of evidences for ancient culture. Ancient brick walls of Mongnai can be seen at the exit to Langkhio.

Current Mongnai

Current Mongnai Township with 58 miles in length from the east to the west and 22 miles in width from the south to the north is located on 745.57 square miles of land with 0.56 square mile area for Mongnai. The township takes position between 20° 20’ and 50’ north latitude and between 97° 49’ and 98° 29’ east longitude.

 Mongnai Township is sharing border with Mongpyin Township in the east, Maukmai Township in the west, Langkhio Township in the south and Namsang and Kunhing townships in the north. Travellers have easy access to Mongnai from Taunggyi, Loilem, Namsang, Langkhio and Kholam through motor road. Mongnai is 30 miles to Namsang, 27 miles to Maukmai, 22 miles to Langkhio and 51 miles to Kengtawng.

Currently, Mongnai Township is constituted with two towns namely Mongnai and Kengtawng, 12 wards and 74 villages from 14 village-tracts. Langkhio District comprises Langkhio, Maukmai, Mongpan and Mongnai townships.

Mongnai Township is teeming with plentiful of hills such as Loimonmone, Loimahaw, Loikauk, Loimongmoung, Loitanin and Loiin. Mongnai Township at an altitude of 3,179 feet is crossed by Namting, Namtun and Namsalai creeks from the north to the south. Namting Creek from the land with 427 feet in height torrentially flows down at Tatbon-aing waterfall near Kengtawng with 2,132 feet high above sea level.

Despite being a hilly area, Mongnai Township gets a lot of rainfall per year between 33 inches and 48 inches on 59-81 average raining days per year. The township is at 3° centigrade in minimum in the cold season and 38° centigrade in maximum in summer.

According to the statistics released on March 2018, Mongnai Township is home to 41,054 people, 23,851 of who are Shan ethnics, accounting for 72.55 per cent of the total population. Two basic education high schools, one high school branch, three middle schools and 40 primary schools scatter in the small township.

In order to provide healthcare services to local people, one 25-bed government hospital each is operated in Mongnai and Kengtawng in addition to eight rural health branches. A total of 1,106 pagodas and 54 monasteries mushroom in Mongnai Township whereas two Christian churches, one Islamic mosque, two Hindu temples and one Chinese temple take positions in the township.

Ancient pagodas in Mongnai

Travellers can pay a visit to Mongnai, 35 miles south to Langkhio, via Namsang which is 70 miles from Taunggyi.

Two brick posts in shape of lotus buds on both sides of the road at the entrance to Mongnai become great symbols of the town.

Histories of the town mentioned Mongnai was established three times. The first Mongnai city was established in the place, 18 miles northeast of current town and the second four miles east of the current town. The third Mongnai city was established in 1557 in the reign of King Bayintnaung. Although the Mongnai Chieftain was loyalty to King Bayintnaung, King Nyaungyan occupied Mongnai in 1603. Such occupation cut off the succession to the Mongnai Chieftain. In his reign, King Thalun appointed Sao Lah Hkam as the Chieftain of Mongnai. The religious edifices built in Mongnai in the time of Myanmar occupation showed mixed architectural works of Myanmar and Shan.

On arrival at Mongnai, I saw ancient pagodas in groups on right side of the road. Most of the pagodas were built in style of Myanmar architecture similar to the pagodas across the nation, not in shape of long stupas in Shan State. The group of pagodas is called Mongnai Mwedawsu Pagodas.

Buddhist Abbot U Pannapala who is maintaining these pagodas said there are 51 pagodas in the group. Some pagodas were renovated in current style, so original works of edifices could not be found. We supplicated to the abbot that maintenance of the pagodas in original style can show higher value of cultural heritages than painting and gilding the ancient pagodas.

A large banyan tree is thriving near the pagodas. A large branch of tree is in shape of chamber where a Buddha image is kept.

U Shwe Aung Pagoda, assumed as the largest pagoda in Shan State, is located in a large fence in the centre of town. Despite no past information about the pagoda, we assumed title of the pagoda as name of well-wisher as the title is name of a person.

Mongnai Hnakyeik Shithsu Pagoda is similar to works of Amarapura era at Shweyaungtaw Pagoda in ancient Makkhaya city in Singaing Township. The works of the pagoda are in style of Shan nationals. Likewise, works of Maung Khaing Maung Naing Pagoda are similar to that of Myatheintan Pagoda in Mingun.

Mongnai Haw (Chieftain Palace)

“Haw” is in Shan language. It means a palace of Shan Chieftain, according to Myanmar dictionary. Mongnai Chieftain Palace was built in the downtown by Chieftain Sao Pyae in 1951. Sao Pyae succeeded to Mongnai Chieftain Sao Kyaw Hoe who passed away in 1948 and held a grand ceremony of housewarming in 1962.

Mongnai Chieftain Palace was built in European style, flanked by Ottara hall on the northward and Dekkhina hall on the southward in addition to a large balcony.

The chieftain palace was originated in southern part of Nawngmo Lake. Mongnai Chieftain Sao Khun Nwam moved the palace to the present place in 1854. The chieftain palace reduced in ashes in 1898 was rebuilt again. In 1933 in the tenure of Mongnai Chieftain Sao Kyaw Hoe, the old palace was dissolved and then rebuilt but it was set on fire in Japanese occupation era in 1945.

A cream post erected by chieftains and a bronze cow statue located in the compound of Mongnai Chieftain Palace became symbols of Mongnai. A lamp-post erected in front of the palace in 1891 can be seen till today.

Hills in Mongnai

Hsin Hill, Tagun Hill, Mya Hill, Sein Hill, Shwe Hill and Ngwe Hill are significant ones in Mongnai Township. Tagun Hill positions in southwest of Mongnai, and the pagoda on the hill is called Taguntaung Pagoda. In the tenure of Mongnai Chieftain Sao Shwe Kyi, local people relayed pieces of gravels from Nawngkyaw Creek in the east of town onto the hill to build the pagoda.

Anyone taking position on Tagun Hill can view the scene of Mongnai town on the hillside in the east. It was reported that British erected the statue of Mongnai governor on Tagun Hill but local people demolished it later.

Myataung, Seintaung, Shwetaung and Ngwetaung pagodas are close to Tagun Hill. These pagodas were built by wealthy brothers Maung Khaing and Maung Naing. U Tha Khaung monastery was not far from Ngwetaung Pagoda but 27 pagodas can be seen now without monastery. Minthar Pagoda built by Major Prince Maung San of Mongnai is located in lower part of Hsin Hill. Chieftain Sao Khun Son hoisted an umbrella atop the pagoda in 1828.

Mongnai, an ancient town in southern Shan State, is plentiful of ancient buildings with original works. Preserving these ancient edifices means safeguarding the ancient city Mongnai.

(Translated by Than Tun Aung)

References:

Facts about Mongnai Township

(Ministry of Home Affairs)

Records on experiences of journeys